Orchid Designs 

Travel

Bangkok, Thailand

The Quieter Side of Bangkok

Story and photos by BAILA LAZARUS

As three-wheeled tuk tuks ring their bells entreating tourists to flag them down for a ride and buses honk at motorcyclists who snake kamikaze-like through the city streets, it might seem impossible to find an area of quiet refuge in Bangkok, one of the world's busiest cities. But tranquility is not that hard to find if you know what side street to walk down or what gateway to meander through. Amid the racket on the pavement and sidewalks you can find several places to unwind that are not only oases among the fray but easy on your wallet, too.

Chatuchak... after the shopping
For a pastoral afternoon that looks like it's right out of Seurat's "Afternoon on the Island of La Grande Jatte" head for Chatuchak Park in the northern end of the city. Many people might recognize the name Chatuchak (alternately spelled Jatujak or some transliterated variation thereof) for its weekend market that covers acres of ground, selling everything from tourist trinkets to glass dishes to pet supplies, but few venture into the scenic landscape right next door. Closed on three sides by a high gate, the park is only accessible on the market side.
It's a short walk to actually find the gate, but if you look for a small parking lot, you'll find your way in. Inside, a small lake, complete with paddle and rowboats, bridges and a gazebo, offer meanderers a break from the congestion of the market. Rent a boat (only a couple of dollars an hour) for a leisurely cruise or grab some food from the stalls next door and have a picnic. You'll see a few locals lolling about and couples relaxing under trees, but the draw to the area is more the bazaar, so the park remains virtually empty.
To get to the park, make your way to the Skytrain line that runs through the heart of Bangkok and take the train north to Mochit station. The Skytrain system is easy to figure out with instructions in English. You need exact change but there are attendants on duty to help you out. From the centre of town, the cost is 30 baht or about 75 cents US. At the station, follow the crowds to the market but keep on the right side of the road. The first gate is about halfway up the park.

Oasis in the city
At the opposite end of the Skytrain, at the northern end of Silom Street, is Lumpini park. Also remarkable for its tranquility amid the city hubbub, Lupini is comprised of lakes, flowered walkways, a children's playground and even massage services. It's a perfect getaway if you've been taking advantage of the bargains in Patpong Market or along Silom Street, just a few blocks south of the park, and are looking for a place to kick off your sandals for a while. It also offers paddleboats at a modest $2 per hour. Take the Skytrain to Ratchadamri and walk south or get off at Sala Daeng and walk north.

Meditate on this
If internal relaxation is more your style, the Wat Mahadhatu temple offers meditation sessions three times a day, free, with instructions for beginners in English. The classes are actually attended by regular meditation students but foreigners can attend if they take some instruction from a monk first or have experience in the Vipassana style, which is taught there. You'll be sharing a meditation space with monks, trainees and local students.
The Vipassana style focuses on the actions of the body and is practised in the meditation centre in standing, walking and sitting positions. (Wear loose clothing, such as long pants and short-sleeved tops.) Mats are provided. Exercises are done in bare feet. If you are new, come a bit early to get the instruction from the monk (about 20 minutes) and then watch what others do, before taking your own mat and joining the class. No one's watching you so don't worry about doing things wrong. Just be quiet in what you do and try not to get in the way of the other students. Or, better yet, take a class or two in your home city before you go.
Wat Mahdhatu is located on Na Phra That Street, across from Sanam Luang Park, just south of the famous Banglampoo/Khao San Road area and a few blocks north of the Royal Palace. It's a large ochre building with one main entrance on Na Phra That. Enter through a large gateway into a courtyard. Pass through this and make your way to the southwest corner of the compound to Section 5. On the way, you'll pass through a variety of other courtyards, including one that is completely lined with 10-foot-high gold Buddhas. Once you're out of the main courtyard, blue and white signs will point the way to the meditation building. Alternately, if you can make your way around the back of the temple, there is an entrance closer to the meditation area just opposite Trok Thawiphon Street. On weekends, try entering on the east side of the temple, which is right beside the massage rooms. If closed, you must enter on the north side.

Grounds for massage
Almost every visitor to Bangkok takes in the Wat Phra Kaeo temple next to the Grand Palace and the trek around Phra Kaeo (location of the Emerald Buddha) can be as tiring as it is awe-inspiring. If you can manage to squeeze a bit more energy to walk about 10 minutes to Wat Pho, just south of the palace, you'll be well rewarded. Wat Pho is home to Reclining Buddha, also mentioned in guide books, and the crowds that enter to see the famous statue can be daunting. But the goal here is not to line up yet again for a tiring walk, but to enter the stunning temple grounds past the crowds and seek out the massage school. Various areas of the temple have been transformed into educational facilities and two buildings on the eastern side house the school for Thai Traditional Medical Science and Body Massage. The buildings are dorm-style facilities where people can basically walk in (first come, first served) for body or foot massages.
This may be one of the best, and definitely the most reasonable, massages you'll get in your life. Prices start at 180 baht ($4.50 US) for a half-hour massage and go up to 800 baht ($20 US) for a 1.5-hour massage done outside. Also offered are 45-minute foot reflexology sessions for 300 baht ($7.50 US). A few words of warning, though. The massages are very strong so if you have any tender spots or sore joints, let them know beforehand. Also, since the massages are given in dorm-style, large rooms, with beds put close to one another, clothing is kept on, so wear loose, comfortable clothes; long pants or shorts and a short-sleeved top or even a tank top is OK, but a skirt would be awkward. And there is no privacy, so if you're a bit shy about getting massaged in public, ask for directions to the private rooms in a building a short walk away. It's also a good idea to spring the extra 20 baht for fresh linen.
There may be a bit of a wait if the massage school is busy, but consider it an opportunity to walk around the grounds of this overlooked gem. Here, people (and hawkers) are few and the beauty of the pagodas can rival that of Wat Phra Kaeo, though on a smaller scale. More information can be found at www.watpho.com.

Baila Lazarus is a freelance writer, photographer and illustrator living in Vancouver, Canada. Her work can be seen at www.orchiddesigns.net.